Kyoto: Bamboo, Moss and Magic.

October 10, 2017

Bamboo Forest Kyoto
Walking the Bamboo Forest with my best friend

Endless green rice patties and little houses with wooden roofs fly by my train window while I’m pressed hard against the seat. The fast-train Shinkansen is shooting from Tokyo to Kyoto with speed of light. Forests are dotting the rolling hills, as we leave the noisy and crowded capital, Tokyo, behind.

When my best friend and I arrive in Kyoto it seems like a magical door is opening with a creaking sound. It swings open to golden temples, bamboo groves and wind chimes.

This is an homage to a city that instantly turned into one of my favorite places on earth.

 

It’s so quiet that we can hear the chirring crickets and the twittering birds in the warm summer wind. The sun is setting behind the hills, leaving a purple curtain where the moon tries to spy through on the sky. Numerous lanterns are illuminating the Utano-Arashiyama-Yamada Street with its small shops in yellow and orange shades. A sweet smell is in the air.

 

Colorful scarves, cat figures and incense: Here we find all kinds of curious, authentic Japanese arts and crafts. Right next to the stores is a small train station without a roof. It is surrounded by glowing columns, an art installation called The Kimono Forest. Every column is wrapped with Kimonos inside - with beautiful patterns of dragons and flowers.

Gio-ji: The enchanted Forest

Gio-ji Temple Kyoto
Endless moss, endless beauty at Gio-ji Temple

On the next day we are visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tenryu-ji which has an overwhelmingly beautiful garden that seems to burst with quietness and harmony. It's October and the colors of the first fall leaves are reflecting in a large pond.

Afterwards we are taking a walk through the (over)famous (and crowded) Bamboo Forest. To me it is one of the most stunning groves I have seen so far - which thousands of other tourists seem to agree on. No quietness here. Tons of bamboo form almost a tunnel and make your eyes wandering up to the sky and back down along the sturdy, green stems.

 

In the afternoon we are walking to the Gio-ji Temple. Many little traditional shops are hiding in the small alleys along the way. The scenery reminds me a bit of the narrow streets of Southern France. Here you can find intricate fans and tiny basketry.

When we finally reach the temple I’m ultimately losing my mind: Everything – literally everything! – is covered with moss in all kinds of shades and shapes - even the gnarly trees, the rocks and the temple itself. This is one of those moments you wish you could lock in your heart and never let go again. After a slow and extensive stroll we sit down inside of the temple, gazing at Buddha statues, while dusk is slowly entering the woods.


Fushimi Inari, 1,000 red gates in Kyoto, Japan

Sleep authentically with Backache

Airbnb room Kyoto
Our insanely comfortable futons ...
The next morning rain is drumming against the window of our small Airbnb. Everybody who is following my blog for a little while may know that airbnb-ing is one of my favorite ways to travel. It is easy-going, most of the time you can choose between interaction with a real host or a self-check-in, it is usually a bit cheaper than a hotel room, you can choose a kitchen and cook your own food instead of dining out every day, and you still have that privacy that you won’t really find in a dorm in a hostel. Furthermore - with a dedicated host - it can be a really authentic cultural experience with great local tips.
Actually, this time it is super-authentic because we are squatting on the floor to eat at a low Japanese table and we are sleeping on thin futons, also on the floor. Or as my best friend commented after our first night: “I've got a  slipped disk deluxe!”
Summary of our second week in Japan: We saw tons of magical things and places in Kyoto - and we added in a spontaneous day trip ny train to Hiroshima to see a floating torii. I wish we could have spent more time in this area!
If you like you can find more travel stories and photographs on my Instagram account.

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All photos © SquirrelSarah (unelss mentioned otherwise)

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